A Complete Guide to Men’s Hair Products

guide-men's-hair-products

Choosing the right men’s hair products can be a daunting task. Over the last several years, men’s hair products have exploded, ranging from wax, paste, styling cream, fiber, mud, putty, clay, gel, pomade, mousse, hair serum, gel, hairspray, and even texture powder.  This complete guide to men’s hair products will help you wade through the options.

Gone are the days of the flaky, hard gel in the blue bottle we used to use in middle school, but how is a guy supposed to know which men’s hair products are best for him?

I’ve spent hours combing through different sources to compile a comprehensive guide to men’s hair products.

This definitive guide should steer you in the right direction based on your hair type, thickness, and length. It should prevent purchases on products that won’t work, saving money, time, and frustration in the process.

So, let’s jump in.

Hair thickness:

To determine thickness, we are actually referring to density, or how closely packed the hair follicles are on the scalp.  A lot of hair follicles packed closely together indicates a higher density of hair, and as a result, “thicker” hair.

On the contrary, fewer hairs packed closely together indicates a lower density and results in “thin” hair.

To determine which type you have, look in the mirror when your hair is in its natural state.  If traces of the scalp are visible, you likely have lower density hair follicles and “thin” hair.  If the opposite is true, and traces of the scalp are not visible, you have “thick” hair.

Disclaimer: Thickness can also refer to the actual width of the individual strands of hair, but for the purpose of this guide, thickness refers to density.

Here are two examples:

men's-guide-hair-products-thick-hair

Thick Hair

men's-guide-hair-products-thin-hair

Thin Hair

Hair type:

There are four types of men’s hair:

  • Straight
  • Wavy
  • Curly/Coiled
  • Kinky

Determining which type you have is crucial, as certain men’s hair products will work better with particular hair types.

Straight Hair

Straight hair grows straight from the root and does not bend within three inches if dried naturally.

Pros: It’s the easiest to manage of all the hair types and can be the most versatile when it comes to hair styles.

Cons: Lack of volume.  Straight hair is notorious for lying flat and not possessing much volume.  In other words, it doesn’t do much without extra help from men’s hair products.

Example of Straight Hair:

 men's-guide-hair-products-straight-hair

Wavy Hair

Wavy hair curls as it extends from the hair follicle.  Some types of wavy hair will be misidentified as straight if it’s kept less than three inches.  If you are unsure, grow it out past three inches, and if it has the distinctive “S” shape, you’ve got wavy hair.

Pros:  When grown out, these are often the guys people refer to as having “good hair”.  It can be the best of both worlds, easy to style but also has more volume than straight hair.

Cons: Wavy hair can get frizzy.  When humidity levels are high, moisture will pass through the raised cuticle layer and swell the individual hair strands, leaving it frizzy and dry, as opposed to defined and smooth.

Example of Wavy Hair:

men's-guide-hair-products-wavy-hair

Curly/Coiled Hair

Curly or coiled hair is a tighter version of wavy hair with corkscrew like curls that extend outward from the scalp and can drape around the face if left to grow.

Pros: Volume and distinctiveness.  Men who have curly or coiled hair have a tremendous amount of volume at their disposal, with their full, thick hair.  They don’t require much styling aide from men’s hair products, and they can stand out from a crowd (think Troy Polamalu from the Pittsburgh Steelers)

Cons: Frizz and lack of versatility.  Frizz can plague the curly/coiled hair more than wavy hair.  It can also be harder to style curly hair.

Example of Curly or Coiled Hair:

men's-guide-hair-products-curly-hair

Kinky Hair

Kinky hair is the curliest of the four types.  If it is difficult to see where one curl starts and another begins, that is kinky hair.

Pros: Volume and range of styles.  Kinky hair possesses the most volume out of the four types.  It also allows for a variety of hair styles and the option to get intricate with designs and hair clippers.

Cons: It is the most resilient to hair men’s hair products like clay, wax or pomade and can become dry and frizzy.

Example of Kinky Hair:

men's-guide-hair-products-kinky-hair

Hair Length:

  • Short: 0.125 inches to 3 inches
  • Medium: 3 inches to 6 inches
  • Long: over 6 inches

Now that we have identified thickness, type and length, it is time to jump into the myriad of men’s hair products available.

First, let’s define two important terms regarding men’s hair products, shine and holding power.

Shine refers to level of finish a product can have on the hair.  High shine will leave a glossy finish, whereas no shine will leave a matte finish on the hair.

Holding power refers to the strength the hair product has.  A maximum hold hair product will keep a hair style in place without much movement, whereas a light or no hold hair product will keep the hair in a more natural, flowing state.

guide to men's hair products


Pomade

Medium Hold, High Shine

Our Choice: Suavecito Pomade Firme (Strong) Hold $12.49

Think Mad Men, Grease, or Leonardo DiCaprio in the Great Gatsby.  Pomade is great for formal or special events and works well with hairstyles that require a comb.  Pomade isn’t crunchy or clumpy like gel and is best for short to medium hairstyles.  It is pliable and can be restyled throughout the day.  Pomade works best with thick, straight, or wavy hair and has a creamier consistency than waxes.

Daily wear can make hair look or feel greasy, and is not good for thin hair, as it bunches hair strands together and makes thin hair more noticeable.

Pomade comes in two types, oil and water based.

Oil based is the classic pomade that has been around for generations.  Purists believe oil based pomade is the only “real” pomade and is generally made from petroleum and lanolin.  It provides a superior shine and the ability to rework throughout the day.  However, there are some major drawbacks.  Oil based pomade is notoriously hard to wash out of hair, and it can strip hair’s natural oil.  Last, oil based pomade can clog pores, leading to acne on the head and face area.

Water based pomade is much easier to wash out of the hair and is a suitable substitute for the traditional oil based pomade.  It may not be able to be restyled throughout the day as sufficiently as oil based pomade, but there should be a significant reduction in clogged pores and acne breakouts.  Water based pomade will generally be more expensive than oil based depending on brands.

Overall, pomade is a great choice for the “classic” combed look.

Application Method: Rub a small amount of product between palms and style onto towel dried or slightly damp hair.

Clay (Bentonite)

Medium Hold/Low Shine when applied to Dry Hair, High Hold/Medium Shine when applied to Damp Hair

Our Choice: Layrite Cement Matte Hair Clay $19.00

Clay is a relatively newcomer to men’s hair products, but arguably is one of the best.  As a happy medium to gel and paste, it is generally a stickier version of pomade but with a firmer hold and is best for short to medium length hairstyles.

It will have a medium hold and low shine when applied to dry hair and a high hold/medium shine when applied to damp hair.  Clay is versatile and will add more texture to the hair than paste.  Additionally, it adds body and thickness to hair, as it helps to individually separate the strands.

It is less touchable and re-workable than paste, but clay’s bentonite is able to draw impurities and dirt, without stripping oil, while simultaneously nourishing the hair.

Application Method: Rub a small amount of product between palms and style onto dried or slightly damp hair.

Paste

Medium Hold/Light Shine when applied to Dry Hair and High Hold/Medium Shine when applied to Damp Hair

Our Choice: 18.21 Man Made Paste $24.00

Paste is an all-around workhorse regarding men’s hair products.  If you are a guy that styles your hair, paste is an essential to have in your arsenal.

Paste adds texture to short and medium length hair, giving that messy “bed head” look.  It is good for thin hair by providing crucial volume when hair is dry, giving off a matte finish.  When applied to damp hair, paste will provide a medium shine.  Paste won’t clump and can be restyled throughout the day.  Overall, paste is a flexible, versatile product, ideal for all hair lengths, and straight, wavy or curly hair types.

Application Method: Rub a small amount of product between palms and style onto dried or slightly damp hair.

Styling Cream

No Hold to Light Hold/Light Shine

Our Choice: Jack Black Sleek Finish Texture Cream $15.00

Styling cream’s main purpose is to help medium/long hair look healthy while maintaining a natural to light shine.  Think Brad Pitt in World War Z or Charlie Hunnam in Son’s of Anarchy.

Styling cream is more of a thick cream than a waxy solid and is great for all hair types, as it handles frizziness and makes the hair feel light and feathery.  It helps to guide hair in a specific direction and tames strays.

Cream is made up of oils and amino acids, which act as conditioners, providing a strong, flexible, natural appearance.

Application Method: Styling Cream should only be applied to dry hair.  Apply a small amount to hands and rub between palms.  After getting an even spread on both hands, apply to the hair, root to tip.

Wax

Medium Hold/Light to Medium Shine

Our Choice: TIGI Bed Head B Matte Wax $8.17

According to some sources, “wax” is the catchall phrase for clay, putty, glue, paste, and styling cream.

However, I believe each of the above have different nuances that deserve their respective categories.

Overall, wax is best for short to medium hair and gives the textured “bed head” look, providing a medium hold with a light to medium shine.  However, there are better options for medium length hair available.  Wax is best for straight hair but can be prone to clumping in wavy or curly hair, so be careful.

Wax has a lighter hold than pomade, can generally be restyled throughout the day and doesn’t have a tendency to harden like gel.

Application Method: Wax should be applied to thick, dry hair.  Apply a small amount in the palm and warm by rubbing both hands together.  After sufficiently warmed, apply to the hair, root to tip.

Fiber

High Hold/No Shine

Our Choice: American Crew Fiber $9.29

Fiber is good for thick hair, also to give the effect of texturized “bed head” in a matte finish.  It is best for short to medium hair and provides decent volume.

Application Method: Like wax, fiber should be applied to thick, dry hair.  Apply a small amount in the palm and rub both hands together.  Apply to the hair, root to tip.

Mud/Putty

High Hold/Low Shine

Our Choice: Pete and Pedro Putty $19.00

Very similar to Fiber, Mud/Putty is best for short to medium length hair and provides a low shine.  Mud/Putty is a midpoint between clay and fiber.  But, if a comb is needed, switch to clay or paste.

Application Method: Rub a small amount of product between palms and style onto dried or slightly damp hair.

Hair Spray

Flexible to Max Hold/No to High Shine

Our Choice: John Frieda Forever Full Hairspray $4.99

Hairspray’s popularity has certainly declined over the last couple decades or so, but some of the most well-renown stylists still swear by the product.

Hairspray is arguably one of the best finishing hair products that holds a style in place.  It can provide volume, give greater control and is good for sustaining the volume in thinning hair.

It comes in three types: flexible-hold, medium-hold, and maximum-hold.  Flexible hold provides the most natural movement of the three and can help tame frizziness without much holding power.  Medium hold provides a bit more holding power than flexible hold and is best suited to keep volume in place without stiffness.  Last, maximum hold is hard, crunchy, and least flexible, but it will do the best in holding every hair in place throughout the day.

Application Method: Put your non-dominant hand across your forehead before spraying to avoid getting hairspray onto a clean face.

Hair Serum

Low Hold/High Shine

Our Choice: Paul Mitchell Serum $19.76

Hair serum is best for medium to long hair, and is more of a conditioning, healthy agent as opposed to a “styler”.

Hair serum is shiny, flexible and gives the hair a soft, smooth moisturizing texture, which also reduces unwanted frizz.

Application Method:  Add a few drops to towel dried hair to enjoy the benefits of the conditioning hair serum.

Texture Powder

Light Hold/No Shine

Our Choice: Mister Pompadour Texture Powder $18.95

Texture powder’s main purpose is to provide volume, as it coats and separates separate hair strands.

It is normally used as the precursor to paste or pomade and is made up of the rough particulate, silica silylate.  The particulate sticks to the strands and creates friction.  As a result, volume is produced by the separation.

Application Method:  Texture powder can leave hair feeling rough or stiff, so use it sparingly.  When applied to the roots, the powder can produce the most volume.


Gel and Mousse

I did not include gel and mousse in the “Guide to Men’s Hair Products” above, as it is 2018, not 1988, and there are much better options available.  Gel and mousse are no longer en vogue and belong in the past, along with mullets and shoulder pads.

However, since this is a comprehensive guide, I will cover both.

Gel

High Hold/High Shine

Think Guy Fieri on Diner’s Drive-Ins and Dives (good show, bad hair), or think back to the fifth grade when spiked, frosted tips were the cool thing to have.

Gel has a tendency to flake and leave a residue when touched, making it one of the worst options for pliability and flexibility throughout the day.  I remember getting so mad in grade school when someone touched my gelled hair, because I knew it was ruined until I could re-energize it with more water later.

Gel also contains alcohol, which can dry out hair.

Overall, there are options for higher end gels available that may not flake when touched, but I can’t in good conscience recommend any, as there are so many better options listed above.

Mousse

Firm Hold/Medium Shine

Mousse, for those that haven’t tried it, is like a weird mix between gel and hair spray.  It can give volume like hairspray but makes the hair crunchy like gel.  Think Jon Bon Jovi in the 80’s.

Mousse won’t leave flakes or residue like gel.  If it must be used, it can be the precursor for initial volume followed up by a secondary product to define the hairstyle.

Again, there are better men’s hair products than mousse.


With the extensive list of options regarding men’s hair products, choosing which one can be a frustrating, daunting task.  I hope this complete guide will shed some light on what you need, so you can avoid wasting time, resources, and money on something that won’t work for you.  Rather, I hope this guide leads you to the best hair products available, which will give you the confidence and edge you deserve.

Good luck and thanks for reading!

-Chris

Still have time? Check out some of our other articles like 10 Men’s Grooming Habits Women Hate or How to Trim a Beard Neckline


Thanks to all of my sources!

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