Choosing the proper undershirt can be surprisingly tricky, but it’s not too difficult with a few basic tips. Although it seems mundane, a poor choice in an undershirt can severely hamper an otherwise great outfit.
I try to practice what I recommend. In all honesty, I knew some basics regarding an undershirt, but I didn’t know all the tips until I wrote my last article How Many Shirt Buttons to Leave Undone?. For example, I knew that if I were to leave my collared shirt unbuttoned without a tie, I needed a V-neck undershirt, so it didn’t show.
That was about it.
I thought that purchasing a 3-pack of white V-neck undershirts would be all I needed. I even skipped Wal-Mart and went directly to TJ Maxx for a shot at better quality shirts.
The only problem is that white undershirts seem to show underneath a lot of light colored dress shirts, including the oxfords and poplins I suggest in Minimalist Wardrobe for Men, A Casual Guide. But, I thought that was normal and expected. Heck, Don Draper even sports the white undershirt, and it’s definitely visible under his white dress shirts. If it’s cool for Don to do it, then it must be standard practice I thought.
This all changed last week.
Not only did I feel it important to share these tips on choosing the proper undershirt, but I also went out and purchased new undershirts almost immediately.
It’s the small things that count, and these five tips on choosing the proper undershirt, although small, can have a positive impact on your overall style.
Tip #1: Know When to Wear an Undershirt
Perhaps the biggest reason for wearing an undershirt is an extra layer of protection between your body and button up shirt. If you sweat while eating ketchup when its 55 degrees outside and are self-conscious about pit/sweat stains, then an undershirt is probably necessary.
Since an undershirt is the sacrificial lamb when it comes to odor, sweat, and deodorant stains, it has the ability to preserve your nicer, presumably more expensive, button up shirts for longer periods.
Undershirts can help cover nipples, tattoos, and chest/back hair, especially with lighter color button ups.
Last, undershirts can keep you a little warmer in the winter months, providing one extra layer of insulation between your core and the outside elements.
But, if you don’t sweat, you’ve got an unlimited dress shirt budget, you live in Miami year-round, and you have a physique like Brad Pitt in Fight Club, you might not need to wear an undershirt. At the end of the day, it’s your body. Do what is appropriate for your workplace, climate, etc., and most importantly, do what makes you happy.
Tip #2: Know Your Undershirt Types
The main rule to keep in mind when it comes to undershirts is that they are not meant to be visible. They shouldn’t peak out under a collar, and they shouldn’t be detectable through a light-colored button up.
Crew: Crew shirts should only be worn if you plan on wearing a tie or plan on having your collar buttoned all the way up for the duration you are wearing a dress shirt. On the contrary, if you plan on taking the tie off or going with one or two buttons undone, a crew shirt should be avoided. Otherwise, it breaks the “main rule”, as the collar of the crew shirt can be seen under the collar of a button up when undone.
V-Neck: This is the gold standard when it comes to undershirts. A V-neck is appropriate when you plan on leaving your dress shirt unbuttoned, as the “V” collar exposes the chest and not undershirt fabric. However, a “deep” V-neck may be necessary if you choose to leave two buttons undone. See How Many Shirt Buttons to Leave Undone? for a quick guide on leaving 0-3 buttons undone on collared shirts.
The caveat, however, is that “deep” V-necks can sometimes be visible through light colored button ups, exposing the contrast between the chest and undershirt. So, if you are planning to transition from wearing a tie at work to going tieless while getting a beer afterwards, consider a regular V-neck and leaving only one button undone. Otherwise, the “deep” V-neck may be noticeable throughout the work day when wearing a tie.
A-Shirt (Tank Top): The main purpose of an undershirt is to block sweat, catch deodorant stains, cover skin/hair, or for warmth. The only thing a tank top does is hide nipples, making it the least ideal type of undershirt. The tank top also produces some of the worst contrast lines under a button up, so it should probably be avoided.
Compression: Suffer from a bit of a dad bod? Compression shirts are extremely tight, helping to suck in extra folds, cellulite or gynecomastia (man boobs). Unfortunately, colors tend to be extremely limited, mainly just white or black options, which isn’t great.
Long Sleeve: Suitable for the winter time, providing an extra layer of warmth in chilly conditions.
Tip #3: Know the Best Undershirt Colors
Speaking of colors, this is where a lot of guys go wrong, including me up until two weeks ago.
Although places like Wal-Mart would have you think that white is the best undershirt color, since you can get 12 shirts for around $15, white is resoundingly not the best option. Sorry Don.
In fact, Antonio Centeno says it best, “a white undershirt under a white shirt on a white guy can be surprisingly obvious.”
Since white and blue tend to be staple colors for dress shirts and casual wardrobes, what color is an undershirt supposed to be?
Ideally, your undershirt color should match your skin tone.
Darker Complexions: browns, tans, dark browns
Lighter Complexions: beiges, nudes and creams
Unfortunately, though, it can be surprisingly difficult to find beige, nude or cream-colored undershirts. So, there are two alternatives.
Alternative 1: Tea Dying White Undershirts
This method is going to require a little extra work, but it easily matches a lighter complexion. Basically, all you need is a large stock pot, black tea, vinegar, salt, water, access to a stove, and an afternoon of your time.
See the below video for full instructions:
Alternative 2: Heather Gray/Light Gray Undershirts
If dying your white undershirts with tea seems a little too cumbersome, there is an alternative in heather gray or light gray undershirts.
The light gray blends much better with skin tones than white undershirts. But be careful, if a gray undershirt gets too dark, and it’s paired with a very thin white button up, the button up can appear a little dingy.
Tip #4: Know How an Undershirt Should Fit
An undershirt should be fitted or tight on the body, but not constricting. It needs to be long enough that it stays tucked in while wearing a dress shirt without billowing up when sitting down. It needs to be thin, so it doesn’t add extra bulk to areas on the body that don’t need it.
Basically, an undershirt needs to be form fitting in order to prevent lumps and crumples appearing under a dress shirt, which can ruin a look.
Tip #5: Know Undershirt Limitations
An undershirt is not a t-shirt, and a t-shirt is not an undershirt.
T-shirts are thicker than undershirts. Remember, the main purpose of an undershirt is to cover and block stains while remaining undetectable if possible. The thickness of a t-shirt will only add more bulk and increase visibility under a button up.
So what undershirts do we recommend?
David Archy: Micro Modal & Bamboo V-Neck ($39.99 for 3)
With a 4.5 star rating on Amazon at 389 reviews, the David Archy Micro Modal & Bamboo Rayon
shirts come in a regular V-neck with the proper color gray. Currently, they only offer “deep” V-necks in white unfortunately. Regardless, the micro modal fabric is light and silky to the touch. It is close fitting, tag-less, and the right length for an undershirt. I would highly recommend giving them a shot.
If you are set on a “deep” V-neck and having two buttons undone on your dress shirts, try The Thompson Tee’s Sweat Proof Undershirts
. They are a little more expensive at $27.49 per shirt, but they are high quality, and come in both gray AND beige. You may even recognize the brand from Shark Tank.
Regardless of which brand, color or collar type you choose, I hope these tips on choosing the proper undershirt aids in your decision.
At the end of the day, it is my goal to provide information that helps you look and feel your best. If tweaking something small like an undershirt perfects your style, and it helps you land your next job, date, sale, anything, the time it took to research and write this article was worth it. Good luck on reaching all of your goals.
-Chris
Enjoy reading 5 Basic Tips on Choosing the Proper Undershirt? Check out more of our popular style and grooming articles: Minimalist Wardrobe for Men, a Casual Guide, 20 Best Watches Under 100 Dollars, or Best Haircut for Your Face Shape, a Men’s Guide.
I need to thank my sources for helping change my style for the better and fixing my undershirt faux-pas.
Thank you:
Thanks for reading 5 Basic Tips on Choosing the Proper Undershirt!